The long-term enjoyment of your touring skis is dependent upon having a ski that flexes properly for both grip and glide. We combine the proper flex with a ski width to match the terrain and your skiing expectations.

Ski Width Determines Stability/Speed and Suitable Terrain

First, we will select a ski width that best accommodates the skier’s ability level and the trails and terrain they expect to ski. Beginning skiers who have no previous experience and are not yet comfortable on skis may want to adjust to a slightly wider ski.

Light Touring vs. Touring vs. Backcountry Skis

To keep it simple we call skis that can be effectively skied with NNN or SNS bindings and boots, light touring skis.These skis lack metal edges and are 60mm or narrower in width. BC (backcountry) skis, with or without metal edges, are too heavy for light touring gear. They need BC boots and bindings for torsional control over the heavier ski. Backcountry gear is used for deep snow and rough frozen terrain..

Ski Flex Testing Determines Grip and Glide

Next, for both wax-able and wax-less skis we flex test at the skier’s half weight to determine the grip zone on a wax-able ski, and the glide on a wax-less ski.

Wax-less ski flex testing: Use a digital flex-tester to determine the characteristics of a wax-less ski.

Wax-able touring ski flex: For wax-able skis we will use the skier’s half-weight to map out a grip zone which helps us determine if the ski is too stiff or soft. We also will mark the bridge (gap) with different feeler gauges to determine how many layers of wax need to used on certain portions of the ski.

The red lines are meant to represent the layers of wax needed on certain portions of the grip zone. The blue line is a gap between the bottom of the ski and the testing surface at the skier’s full weight. This area is called residual camber, and it needs to marked and addressed with additional wax for effective kick.

Wax-less Touring Ski Flex Testing

With wax-less skis, we look at the bridge at half-weight to see how much of the pattern is off the surface for effective glide. We have found that the most important characteristic for most skiers is to have the ski compress fully at the skier’s full weight. This characteristic allows for effective grip on uphills and a more relaxed kick in variable terrain. At full weight if there is residual camber on a wax-less ski, the grip/kick will be difficult on uphills and we will look for a softer ski. Different ski models have various designs and/or wax-less patterns.

Your best ski choice is ski that fits, and one that is designed for your skiing style and purpose.

#1: First, select the appropriate type of cross country ski. Ski type is chosen based on the type of skier you are and the terrain you plan to ski and the technique you plan to use

#2: Select the ski model(s) that are designed for your expectations, and fit within your budget.

#3: Work on ski fit. THE most important factor in your long-term enjoyment of your skis is PROPER SKI FLEX and matching the appropriate flex to the skier’s weight along with a number of other factors. Weight range charts are only a starting point particularly for mid level skis. To ensure an accurate fit, all adult (double camber) skis should be individually flex tested using a flex tester (pictured below). Without this critical information, the purchasing process will be relegated to guesswork.

#4: If you have boots that you would like to use with the skis, keep your boot-binding system in mind while looking at skis. Click here for a complete explanation of NNN and SNS binding systems and compatibility.

Ski brands offer differing ski lengths and design strategies. With our expertise, we can analyze all of the various ski options to pick the flex and length of the ski brand that fits you best. Other factors to consider are listed with each specific ski type.

Once the last of the season’s snow melts it is time to think about putting your ski equipment away for the summer and making sure it stays in a good enough condition that you can hop straight back on to it next year.

The easiest thing to do would be to take your skis to the nearest ski shop and ask for them to be professionally tuned to get rid of any damaged areas, and then waxed ready for early season conditions. However, to save those all important pennies at the end of a holiday you can do most of this yourself at home by following these easy steps:

Rust check

Firstly you need to have a look at your edges and get rid of any rust that might be forming. It can be easily taken off with a simple rubber or use wire wool for more stubborn patches. It’s important to catch rust early because it can spread if skis are left untreated for months over the summer. This can significantly decrease the lifespan of your skiing equipment making future holidays a pain to get prepared for.

Edge Care

For further care to your edges (and to save time in the shop at the start of your next ski trip) you could buy an edging tool; a small machine that is very good at smoothing out ‘burrs’ in the metal. If these little sharp dents are left they can become more pronounced so it is worthwhile to get rid of them at the end of every season if you can. You would only need to get this done once a year normally, but if you plan on having quite a few adventurous trips then it would worth the investment.

Waxing

This is easier to get done in a shop and doesn’t cost much. If you have your own though then great, slap it on – it doesn’t need to be neat for storage as you can scrape it off to the right amount when you are ready to use them again. You can even just run a candle over the edges and put a piece of wax paper between where the bases touch for protection if you want to get them waxed properly at the start of the next season.

Proper ski storage

This is one of the most important tips which many people get wrong. Even if you don’t bother with any of the above, you should always make sure you store your skis properly in a clean, dry environment where they won’t get knocked about and damaged. The edges can oxidize and go rusty if they get damp and this can actually happen if you keep them in a ski bag, so as tempting as it is to put them away neatly, it is worth standing them up somewhere like the back of a wardrobe. Keep them together with a Velcro strap and it’s also and idea to turn down the release clamps to relieve stress on the cables. This means that the DIN settings will be exactly the same as you had them set before.

Ski Boot care/storage

Ski boots need to be thoroughly aired before they get put away for the summer. You can do this by pulling out the inners and stretching them out on a radiator (or outside if it’s nice weather). Once completely dry put the inners back into the shell and make sure you fasten the buckles up to how you normally wear them. This is really important as it will be difficult to do your boots up the next time you wear them if they are left open for any length of time. It is best to store them in a boot bag if you own one, or at least wrap them up in plastic bags sealed with duct tape.

Although all of this may seem like a lot to consider it is worth protecting your investments. Skiing can be an expensive hobby – so the more care you take of your equipment, the more cash you can spend on having fun on your winter holiday.

With the huge cold front and storm system that rolled through much of the country in October, many places have already experienced their first significant snow. Yet, the resorts aren’t open, limiting the opportunities for alpine and especially piste-skiing. But for skiers who can’t wait to get out there, gliding over the snow on their skis, Nordic skiing is the way to do it.

If you ask us, we’ll tell you that Nordic skiing is the better option overall, anyway. But since there’s no trade-off with the resorts and ski runs still not ready to go, you can eat your cake today and save the rest to have for later.

If you’re also looking for a sense of solitude, it’s kind of a crapshoot. Certainly, you’ll be able to avoid the tourists. But in the most popular and populous ski towns with plenty of locals also looking for the peace and quiet offered by the backcountry in winter, there’s certainly no guarantee that you won’t see others out on the trails. Nonetheless, it’s likely to be less crowded than the heart of winter and ski season.

It’s also hard to trust the weather and temperatures for much longer than a day trip. You need to be ready to go when the early-season snows arrive because it’s often not around for very long, especially in terms of maintaining a reasonable ski surface. Cross-country backpack skiing should wait for more reliable snow cover across the entire landscape and duration of the trip.

Of course, not all Nordic skiing is backcountry skiing, and if you’re still new to this style of skiing, then you might do better to stay closer to the resorts and civilization in general during your first few runs. Finally, if you’re looking for that sense of solitude but you’re not yet comfortable with your Nordic skills, it’s not a bad idea to go snowshoeing this time of year, while you continue to develop these skills. Have fun and be safe out there!

Many athletes come to Nordic skiing as an alternative to downhill. Whether they want a day away from the resort or to experience nature in a more intimate, less adrenaline-fueled setting, many new Nordic skiers have some alpine experience. However, those coming down from the mountains are often caught by surprise at the difficult of Nordic skiing. Though the sports are closely related (there’s snow, skis, and poles, after all), alpine skiers shouldn’t pass cross-country touring off as an easy sport. Here are some of the largest differences and challenges one should anticipate when trying Nordic skiing for the first time.

• Equipment stability—Nordic skis are markedly less stable than alpine skis. The latter are heavier, have a wider base, and include metal edges to increase friction when the ski is angled. Nordic skis have none of these features, instead presenting as slender, light, deeply cambered equipment. Additionally, an alpine skier’s center of gravity will be lower because of the weight of the equipment; this is not the case for Nordic skiing.

• Equipment mechanics—Differences in design and construction mean that the mechanics of the equipment are not identical. They may look similar to the uninformed, but different mechanics necessitate different skills. When moving downhill in Nordic skis, for example, skiers must use step turns in order to change direction. Additionally, skidding—a method of stopping—is much more difficult in Nordic skis, as there is no metal edge to cling to the terrain.

• Terrain—Cross-country trails are often narrow, icy, and rutted. Trails are often cupped by both skiers and other recreational enthusiasts (snowmobilers, snowshoers, &c), making skiing on the edges nearly impossible. Additionally, Nordic skiers must follow the contours of a trail, continuing straight even when downhill portions may seem too steep. In contrast, alpine skiers have much more flexibility, and trails are often well maintained by resorts.

Alpine and Nordic skiing are challenging in different ways. However, alpine skiers should never turn to cross-country skiing as an easier alternative; the sports have essential differences in equipment and required skill. Overconfidence can lead to accidents, so remember to do your research and practice before heading out.